Clip, Snip, Pow!: How often to should you clip your ends? (Requested Topic)

I was asked to discuss my thoughts on clipping ends and how often to do so. I think the first thing to do is to understand the reason people clip their ends in the first place.

Why?

We know that the ends of our hair is the oldest and most fragile area of the hair. This makes the ends most susceptible to damage from manipulation, weather, heat styling, friction from clothes, etc. This damage will causes breakage, split ends, single strand knots, and so on. All of these can spread leading to more breakage, rough ends and hard to manage hair. To stop the spread of damage you have to cut it out. 

How?

Now that we know why we should cut damage out we need to talk about how to do it. There are several ways to cut the ends, but I've found three pretty common techniques among naturals; Search and destroy, dusting, and trimming. 

Search and destroy: Is literally what it sounds like. You would divide your hair into workable sections and examine the ends of each section, clipping any split ends, knots, and rough areas. 

Dusting: Is when your take your hair while in twists and snip off the tiniest bit on the very end. 

Trimming: Is taking hair in sections and clipping a set length off of each section, anywhere from a quarter inch or more.

When?

This is where the debate comes in. On one end, it is suggested to trim every 6-8 weeks, to keep ends without any damage and as strong as possible. This may however stunt the noticeable growth. On the other end it is suggested to trim less frequently about twice a year to maintain length. This is likely to result in more severe damage and more cutting. I like to take on an approach in the middle of the spectrum. I like to trim about a quarter inch every 6 months. In between I dust my ends every 8-10 weeks to prevent knots and plits from getting worse or traveling up the shaft of my strands. 

How often do you trim? Which method do you use?

Blow Drying/Heat Styling: My Technique (Requested Topic)

Stephanie, a friend of mine requested that I share my technique when using heat, so here goes...

I always follow a few key steps before I apply any heat to my hair; always start on freshly washed hair, beware of heat damage, and prepare to devote the necessary time and labor for best results. 

Blow Drying

1. Wash, condition, and detangle as normal. 
2. Apply a leave-in conditioner and twist hair in 4-6 sections. 
3. Allow hair to partially dry. (about 2 hours) 
4. Take down one twist and detangle again if needed.
5. apply a heat protecting product of your choice. 
6. Use blow dryer on low heat setting with comb attachment.
7. Start and the ends of the hair and work your way up to the roots.
8. Apply a light oil and lightly re-twist.
9. Repeat steps 1-8 on each section.
10. Untwist each section and style.

Flat Ironing

1. Wash, condition, and detangle as normal.
2. Apply a leave-in conditioner and twist into 4-6 sections.
3. Allow hair to dry completely. (For me this is 10+ hours so plan accordingly)
4. Take down one section.
5. Apply a heat protector.
6. Take a small piece of the section and use flat iron on lowest setting for desired results.
• Bone straight hair will require higher temperatures.
• Try passing the flat iron only once or twice on each section.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 on each section.

Low/Medium Heat
11/2012

Low/Medium Heat
8/2011 (before second big chop)

Medium Heat
9/2012

Medium Heat
7/2012

Lowest Heat
8/2013

Tips:

• Never use temperatures higher than 450 degrees
• Always work with clean hair and clean tools.
• If your ends are split and damaged it will effect your results. (consider clipping before using heat)
• Always deep condition after heat use.
• Use heat sparingly, even at lowest temperature you may sustain heat damage if used too frequently.

Do you use heat? How often? What is your technique?